I have been teaching pattern cutting for a number of years, but have a particular interest in pattern cutting using simple geometric shapes. One of my students brought in a skirt for me to look at, this is my ‘simple shapes’ version. The basic tools required are a set square or pattern master plus a metre ruler.
The basic tube is the simplest shape of all, adding godets makes it a bit special. I made the skirt up from an old curtain. It would be great in a fine tulle or an organza.
The finished skirt. It’s a size 12 based on a 94cm hip with added 4cm ease, totalling 98cm.
A half scale diagram for the whole front of the skirt, the back is exactly the same.
Start by drafting a rectangle, A-B = F-E (98cm divided by 4) = 24.5cm, and A-F=B-E= 54cm
B-E represents the centre back and the centre front and will be cut on the fold of the fabric. A-F is the side seam.
I-J-K is the arch that will create and position the godets – full height is 26cm and width I-K is 6cm. Draw these in position showing only half at the side seam A-F and centre B-E. Once traced the arches are then cut away from the skirt pattern (see pic 5)
The traced arch I-J-K with three slash lines 1-2-3. Cut along the slash lines to the top of the traced arch and spread open to a semi-circle, as seen on the right, for the godet.
The belt that is attached in the seam – see diagram pic 1. The belt is 5cm wide at skirt end and 16cm wide at the other end with an overall length of 128cm. The 5cm width was kept for the approximate waist measure before widening to 16cm
The front skirt pattern pinned on the fold with all seam allowances added to the fabric. The belt is cut as a single layer for each side.
The godet with added seam allowances.
It is possible to just add 1cm seam allowance all round and overlock all seams. As the fabric is semi sheer French seams would also be good, these would need 1.5cm seam allowance.
I would love to know how you get on with the skirt and with pattern cutting in general – let me know in the comments below!
Linda has been practicing for as long as she can remember. "My mother tells stories of me at a very young age watching her sew with my chin on her treadle sewing machine". 'Make do and mend' has also been a big part of her growing up hence her interest in 'zero waste' in both use of fabric and pattern cutting. You can find Linda on Instagram: @lindapowellpatterncutting
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